March 25, 2019
photographs Stefano Della Salda
words Stefan Howarth
During London Fashion Week Ashish presented his fall-winter 2019 collection and, as with each new Ashish collection, we succumbed to sensory overload in the best possible way. The brand is known for its joyful explosion of rainbow shades and shimmering textures, and it definitely lived up to its reputation again this season. The show started with the strike of a gong, which led into a calming live soundtrack performed by a percussionist. A seventies theme transpired throughout the show with granny squares painstakingly hand-sequined using up to 72 different colors, and sometimes forming a single garment.
Hand-crocheted colorful skirts, dresses, jackets and tops were on display, but Ashish pushed back the boundaries and added his usual flair, using luscious knits in lurex threaded with glitter and sequins instead of using traditional yarn. “Nothing is as it seems” was the theme of the show - playing with perception, the designer had fun with fabrics creating looks that appeared to be one thing at first glance but which, on closer inspection, were completely different. Peter Pan collars were made of pearls, and the floral fabric was 3D hand-embroidered floral designs on netting. The designs were so stunningly crafted that it was easy to miss the intricate details hidden within each piece, such as the “glitter” fabric, created by sewing on thousands of the tiniest sequins to make it look like glitter glue.
Several outfits incorporated shimmering 3D flowers, paired with huge beehive hairstyles adding to the appeal of a seventies’ party vibe with the addition of a few glittery hair clips. Glitter even permeated make-up as models featured glitter lips and exaggerated eyes in an array of colors. Ashish also showed menswear pieces with the same technical construction as the women’s garments but in more traditional menswear cuts. This collection showed Ashish’s mastery of technical know-how, and these youthful designs counterbalance his spring-summer 2019 collection, where everything was mini: miniskirts, mini tops, etc. Fall-winter 2019 is set to conceal a little more; much to the delight of the Ashish customer.
ASHISH fALL-WINTER 2019
Version française ici.