February 18, 2019

photographs Ghost Blvck

words Cyril Vinchon


The impact of technology on human interactions was particularly visible at the Cottweiler show for fall-winter 2019, held in an underground parking lot somewhere between the Museum of London and the Barbican Center. I think you could safely say that the season for Cottweiler promises to be simple, but stunningly effective in terms of fashion. Matthew Dainty and Ben Cottrell brilliantly preserved the contrast between natural and technical materials and sportswear and fetishistic designs – the hallmark of this fashion house. The “lost art of cruising” was omnipresent in the collection, lending the eclectic creations an incontestably innovative feel. The 2019 man can wear these resolutely elegant pieces without having to sideline his avant-garde nature: true to itself, Cottweiler artfully and intelligently challenges the established menswear codes.


The collection includes silk moss-print pants and shirts (a subtle nod to the lichen climbing on the sculptures/fountains that were part of the earthy setting) mohair appliqué, hand-dyed merino shearling, thermos-regulated Soft Shell tracksuits, etc. Cottweiler also gave star billing to tops bearing the Lotus and Mercedes-Benz logos. The fashion house has many partnerships, such as the Cottweiler-Allegri duo that joined forces to produce a stunning and classy capsule collection of ten must-have raincoats. All the creations were designed in a palette of understated yet enticing colors including IKB (International Klein Blue), moss green, apple green, black, and a series of beiges, to name but a few.



Streetwear is also a strong influence in the collection: it came as no surprise to see the models pacing the runway in “sneafers” (a contraction of sneakers and loafers), born of a new partnership with Reebok, and the sunshades by Andy Wolf, brought out the Thomas A. Anderson – AKA Neo – in the models who paced the damp, ice-cold concrete in the dank London underground parking lot.  You could be tempted to say that the high-waisted pants give a slightly retro feel to the collection, but to do so would be to overlook the true essence of the 27-model series. Hypnotizing, captivating, timeless – the perfect trilogy to qualify this new fall-winter 2019 collection.



Version française ici.