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mARTA JAKUBOWSKI

February 15, 2019

FALL/WINTER 2019 READY-TO-WEAR

 
 

Swathes of wool and padded fabric encase her, goddess warrior, made from a palette of turning leaves and earth - of brown and putty and cornflower and crimson. Resilience and adaptability manifests in her elongated silhouette, roomy tailored suits, curtain-tie sashes and winged dresses. Tailoring and draping brings softness and structure to signatur asymmetric silhouettes. I think of the columns of the Temple of Parthenon

Marta Jakubowski - Runway - LFW February 2019
Marta Jakubowski - Runway - LFW February 2019
Marta Jakubowski - Runway - LFW February 2019
Marta Jakubowski - Runway - LFW February 2019
Marta Jakubowski - Runway - LFW February 2019

Layering prevails in oversize multi-way jackets with tiered lapels that fasten this way and that, allowing glimpses of tonal variations and in this our complexities are revealed - there is 'no one typical woman'. Slit-sleeze blazer and a four-tiered teal trench peel back, exploring out many identities - creator, mother, warrior, lover. 

Marta Jakubowski - Runway - LFW February 2019
Marta Jakubowski - Runway - LFW February 2019
Marta Jakubowski - Runway - LFW February 2019
Marta Jakubowski - Runway - LFW February 2019

If she is a whole, it's a whole composed of parts that are wholes, not simple partial objects but a moving, limitlessly changing ensemble, a cosmos tirelessly traversed by Eros, an immense astral space not organised around any one sun that's any more of a star than the others.

Marta Jakubowski - Runway - LFW February 2019
Marta Jakubowski - Runway - LFW February 2019
Marta Jakubowski - Runway - LFW February 2019
Marta Jakubowski - Runway - LFW February 2019

She revels in movement and her own physicality, unheeded in roomy trousers and slouchy jackets, prepared for the elements in peach and ochre tailored quilting. For the night, longer silhouettes project her endless sex in vermillion and black. But look, our seas are what we make of them, full of fish or not, opaque or transparent, red or black, high or smooth, narrow or bankless. Slits and reveals expose her, her marked skin, the one she was born with.

Marta Jakubowski - Runway - LFW February 2019
Marta Jakubowski - Runway - LFW February 2019
Marta Jakubowski - Runway - LFW February 2019
Marta Jakubowski - Runway - LFW February 2019
Marta Jakubowski - Runway - LFW February 2019
Marta Jakubowski - Runway - LFW February 2019

We're stormy and that which is ours breaks loose from us without fearing any debilitation. Our glances, our smiles, are spent; laughs exude from all our mouths; our blood flows and we extend ourselves without ever reaching an end. 
She spits Anthuriums (2). She will not be silenced.
- Extrance from Laugh of The Medusa by Helene Cixous.

Marta Jakubowski - Runway - LFW February 2019
Marta Jakubowski - Runway - LFW February 2019
Marta Jakubowski - Runway - LFW February 2019
Marta Jakubowski - Runway - LFW February 2019
 
 
 

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