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the madness

editorial

august 28, 2023

In an era that defines as “madness” the marginalized people who do not follow the capitalist order of social production, who do not follow the principle of the primacy of profit and efficiency, this excluded subject does not disappear from the dominant vision, but appears as a specter that haunts the rational discourse.

The tension between such differently structured discourses has already occurred in history: the famous Hysteria, a pantomime played out during convulsive episodes, was assembled by Jean-Martin Charcot into a classification of mental illnesses and treated with hypnotherapy. Charcot's era ends, Hysteria became a contest between two forces: the aesthetics of women's physical resistance to rational control and men's attempts to name the unknown with a scientific power gaze. In the end, the omnipotence of observation and experience is challenged, and the narrow scientific discourse reveals its own blind ambitions and flaws.

tank top LGN LOUIS-GABRIEL NOUCHI 3 dresses RUOHAN white top YUIMA NAKAZATO ATELIER 2 tops CÉLINE SHEN dress PENGTAI top SAINT LAURENT

 

Will fashion give a different representation and empowerment to the subjects characterized by medical power? Can the viewed subject gaze back at the viewer with his or her own singularity, suspending and petrifying the viewer with beauty and singularity?

 
 
 

dress FERNANDA CASTRO shoes EMPTY BEHAVIOR

dress YUIMA NAKAZATO ATELIER

 
 
 

dress RUOHAN

 

Not just anyone can go mad. A weak organism, a deranged imagination, and conflicts beyond one's capacities do not suffice to cause madness. It may well be that a rock-solid body, powerful identifications, and the indulgence of fate, as written in the stars, lead one more surely to find madness seductive.

Jacques Lacan, Écrits, 2005, p.144

 
 
 

dress EILEEN SUN

coat VAUTRAIT

 
 
 

clothing (left to right) RUOHAN, CÉLINE SHEN, YUIMA NAKAZATO ATELIER, SAINT LAURENT

 

This photography project does not intend to examine every disease of the moment through the male perspective of medical power; the polymorphism of mental illness has always resisted psychopathology' attempts to carve living human beings into silent samples. Thus, fashion photography as a tool will also take a very different path from Charcot's photographs of hysterics, where the mute language of photographic film has to carry the contemporary cry of anxiety and fear rather than imprisoning the body on a pillar of shame - allowing the silent photographs to be the echoes of the contemporary body's Pathos. Fashion styling is the way by which these bodies assert their sovereignty and demonstrate their singularity.

 
 
 

coat JIAWEI HAN

clothing PRESSIAT

 
 
 

top CÉLINE SHEN shoes EMPTY BEHAVIOR

 

The symptoms expressed in this photography project may have a long history and share a similar mechanism with the madness of modern people, but on an individual level it draws a private landscape with a different speed and intensity, instead of the normative one. They live alone in their subjective world, where they are kings, witches, and beggars. The black and white silent atmosphere penetrating these bodies creates a great noise of the inner world, where the body is constantly invaded, yet fragile and dignified.

 
 
 

dress ALAÏA sêcial project by KEYIN WANG

jacket & pants MINGZE SUN shoes CAROLIN HOLZHUBER

 
 
 

3D top MARLON FERRY pants & shoes MINGZE SUN

 
 
 

creative director & fashion DOU QIANLIN @douxqianlin
photographer WEICHEN WU @wu_weichen_ro
academic advisor YINGTING BAI @the.notorious.bo
makeup CLAIRE CARMELINA @clairegil_makeup GARANCE DUFRESNE @garancedufresne_
hair PIERRE GINSBURG @pierreginsburg
set designer ARNAUD LAURENS @sir_arnaud_laurens
fashion assistant RUOCHENG WANG @ruocheng______
executive assistants DANIEL KAN @daniel__can HONGLE LIN @vesper_lewaterholic
casting director MOMO ZHANG @momofromthemoon
models HANABI THE K @hanabithek LOUIS JERIXEN @louisjerixen ANZHELIKA @mopiestprincess JAN FLADE @jan_flade GOYA ROCHE @goya.roche HLIB SAZON @glebsazonov_ MEHDI KESSACI @kessass_ DASHA KONTE @dasha.konte GAIA RENZI @gaiarenzi._